From Fish Sauce to Fries: The Unexpected History of Ketchup

The Humble Origins: KêChiap in Ancient China

In today’s world, it’s hard to imagine a kitchen without a bottle of ketchup nestled among the condiments. It’s the beloved companion of fries, burgers, and all things grilled. But little do most people know, the journey of ketchup started long before tomatoes and burgers even existed.

Our story begins centuries ago, not in America or Europe, but in the bustling markets of ancient China. There, among the fragrant herbs and spices, merchants traded a peculiar sauce known as “kêchiap.” Unlike the thick, red ketchup we recognize today, this sauce was dark, thin, and salty. It was made from fermented fish, brine, and spices—a far cry from the sweet tomato concoction now adorning modern dinner tables.

This early version of ketchup was highly prized for its umami-rich flavour, the kind that made even the simplest dishes more delicious.

Crossing Oceans: British Sailors and the Birth of Ketchup in Europe

As kêchiap spread across Southeast Asia, it took on new names and forms. Sailors from the British Empire, always on the lookout for new flavours to take home, stumbled upon this sauce in the 17th century while trading in Malaysia and Indonesia. Fascinated, they decided to bring back the recipe to England.

Back home, British cooks began experimenting, trying to recreate this exotic sauce using ingredients available in their own cupboards. However, without the proper fish and spices of Southeast Asia, they had to improvise. Mushrooms, walnuts, oysters—nothing was off limits in the pursuit of that savoury depth. For decades, ketchup in England was more likely to resemble a tangy mushroom sauce than anything we’d put on a burger today.

The Tomato Revolution: Ketchup Takes a New Turn

Then came the tomato. In the early 19th century, this curious fruit was still a novelty in Europe and America. Enter James Mease, an American horticulturist, who in 1812 penned what is believed to be the first recipe for tomato ketchup. His version mixed tomato pulp with brandy and spices, setting the stage for a transformation that would change ketchup’s fate forever.

But there was still a problem. Early tomato ketchups lacked the shelf life needed to be stored for long periods, often turning rancid.

Preserving Perfection: Vinegar, Sugar, and the Modern Ketchup Recipe

Along came the mid-1800s, and with it, an innovation that would solidify ketchup’s place in culinary history: vinegar. By adding vinegar to the mix, manufacturers found they could extend the sauce’s life. To balance the acidity of the vinegar and tomatoes, sugar was added. This tweak made the sauce not only last longer but also gave it the sweet, tangy flavour profile that began to capture the hearts—and taste buds—of the masses.

Heinz and the Rise of Commercial Ketchup

By the late 19th century, the Heinz company, known for its commitment to quality, began mass producing tomato ketchup, bottling the new and improved recipe for households across America. Unlike its early fermented fish sauce ancestor, Heinz ketchup was smooth, sweet, and thick—perfect for dipping, dolloping, and spreading. It quickly became a household staple, finding its way to dinner tables, diners, and fast food restaurants around the globe.

A Condiment with an Unexpected Past

And so, what started as a fermented fish sauce in ancient China has taken an extraordinary culinary journey across centuries and continents, transforming into the iconic tomato ketchup we now know and love. It’s a story of adaptation and global influence, proof that even the simplest of condiments can have a rich and surprising history.

Next time you reach for that bottle of ketchup, remember that you’re tasting the legacy of sailors, chefs, and centuries of flavour experimentation—a condiment with an unexpected past, now living on in its perfect place beside fries and burgers.